A Final Farewell

Our last day in Morocco was spent in Rabat back together with the 14 teachers in our cohort.  After traveling by pairs to our host school and being separated for a week, it was great to see everyone again.  We spent the morning "debriefing" in meetings and sharing our stories.  Everyone had very diverse experiences and we all had amazingly different perspectives.  However, one thing we all agreed on was that the hospitality shown by Moroccans was amazing.

View of the medina walls from our hotel

View of the river meeting the Atlantic from our hotel

After our meeting ended, we walked about 2 miles to Chellah.  Chellah is a World Heritage Site that is the most ancient human settlement in the area.  It dates back to pre-Islamic times, but the Romans took it over about 2,000 years ago.  After the fall of the Roman Empire, it was abandoned, then parts were rebuilt in the 1300's.  Although it is crumbling ruins, it is truly quite beautiful.  

ChellahChellah entrance

Inside the Chellah

After our visit to the Chellah endeed, we entered through the walls of the medina one final time to shop in the colorful and lively souk.  I spent the last of my remaining Moroccan money (dirhams) on a few small gifts.  We then had a farewell dinner at a spectacular place.  We went up a dark alley and hit a brass knocker on a huge door.  I thought it was closed, but the door was opened.  We walked into the most beautiful restaurant I have ever seen.  We were the only ones there and we were escorted up three flights of winding stairs and came out on a rooftop terrace that overlooked Rabat, the river, the Atlantic Ocean and the Kasbah that we visited last week.  As we were served ginger drinks, the stars came out overhead and that perfect image will be in my mind forever.  The food was fantastic and so was the company. It was a great way to end an amazing experience here in Morocco.  

Farewell dinner 

Amazing door in the medina

 Colorful shoes on the souk...

and beautiful pottery as well

A Moroccan guard watches over the cultural and historic treasures of Rabat

Tomorrow I will have a long journey home.  I look forward to seeing my family and returning to my classroom, but I will always feel gratitude to everyone who was involved in this journey with me.  Thank you to the U.S Department of State's Teachers for Global Classrooms program, IREX, and Robin Lathrop.  Thanks to my husband for holding down the fort for two weeks and my TGC Morocco cohort for the great times we shared.  But most of all, thank you to the people of Morocco for helping to open my mind.  I have traveled much in my lifetime, but never have I met such friendly, kind, warm and loving people.  I have learned many life lessons from you.  "Shukran" from the bottom of my heart!

Morocco: A Land of Many Contrasts

Finally after a 10 hour bus ride I am safely back in the capital where I began this adventure. The ride took me through farms and fields as well as famous cities such as Casablanca and Marrakesh, so I saw the rural and urban.  Here are some of the things I thought about as I rode along:  
In Morocco, you may see a man driving a donkey cart filled with vegetables sharing the road with a woman driving an American-made SUV.  You might see McDonald's, Pizza Hut or KFC on the same city block city with buildings that are 1,000 years old.  You could find a shepherd attending his flock of sheep as he talks on his cell phone.  Snoop Dogg performed in Morocco last week, and the porter who helped me with my bags at the hotel in Taroudant wore an outfit straight out of the 1940's, but he spoke 5 languages.  I was really thinking about how amazing it is that old and new things seem to work so well together in this country.

Artwork painted on a wall

STOP

The most important thing I want my students to learn from my experience in Morocco is that people aren't so different after all.  We really share more similarities than differences and can coexist peacefully if we take the time to learn about each other.  I think back on earlier today when I got on the bus. Just as it was pulling out a man hopped on and the only available seat was the one next to me.  I was disappointed to have to share because I wanted to stretch out my legs. After a few minutes he asked me a question in Arabic ( I think it was, "Do you have enough room"), and me being language-challenged I replied, "I only speak English".  Then he tried to ask me in French, which of course I didn't understand, so we sat in silence for about 2 hours.  I then pulled out a container of cookies that Hassan's family gave me during our farewell last night and I offered him some.  He took one and said, "Shukran" (thank you).  When the bus stopped in the next city, I got off to go to the bathroom and he got off permanently.  When I came out of the bathroom, we bumped into each other at a kiosk.  He saw I had a drink in my hand and took it and paid for it.  It struck me that even though we didn't understand each other verbally, kindness is a language we can all speak...

A teacher at Sidi O Sidi who kindly taught his math class in English just for our visit.  He also helped me Skype with my 4th period class

Love the doors!

New friends

I prefer Moroccan food

Almost all of the questions left from students were about sports.  Moroccans love soccer and they root for two teams- Raja and Wydad.  Both are Moroccan teams from the same city!  American football isn't popular here

Team Raja sign painted on a wall

Question of the Day;  What is the largest city in Morocco?

Goodbye Taroudant!

Our final day in Taroudant was both happy and sad.  It was happy because I now have so many wonderful memories and new friends, but sad because my time here has ended.  I will miss the sights and sounds of this marvelous town.

A traditional arched Moroccan doorway next to our hotel.  The hotel used to be a mansion for the mayor of Taroudant

We spent the morning in the several classrooms, and I was fortunate enough to observe in a classroom where the English teacher's subject was cultural values and heritage in Morocco.  He and his students helped me learn what should be an example to people of every nation around the world.  Here are some of the highlights:                    Moroccans value...
1) Hospitality:  in Morocco friendship is offered to guests, and the living room is reserved for visitors.  It is often the best room in the house, but not used unless guests are present.  Be prepared to be served tea and cookies and your hosts will tell you "eat, eat, eat" until you are about to explode.
2)  Peace and Tolerance:  Jewish, Christian, and Muslim people lived in Morocco for centuries and coexisted.   There is even a Christian church in this small town of Taroudant.   Moroccans are tolerant when it comes other things as well.  For example, women can wear what they want, but most choose the conservative dress and head scarf out of a tradition of modesty, not because it is obligatory. 
3)  Respect:  Respect for elders is an important value here and they take care of older family members until they die.  Women are also respected here.  There was a Moroccan Family Code passed in 2006 that insists on gender equality in all aspects of life including work and home.  Women may divorce their husbands, and property as well as child custody are shared in divorce.  Also, girls must be at least 18 before marrying so they can finish school. 
4)  Rituals:  Morocco is a diverse culture with a tribal history.  There are many celebrations here and different types of music, dancing, and celebrations are respected and enjoyed. 
5)  Brotherhood:  Moroccans value solidarity and taking care of the less fortunate.  Signs of charity and altruism are everywhere.  The people of Morocco have seen what has happened in other countries nearby and embrace brotherhood to strengthen their bonds in order to avoid such problems in their own future.

This students explains how Moroccans value peace and tolerance

I learned today that plain squares aren't used much in Moroccan architecture- instead they favor the star within the square to symbolize Jewish and Muslim cultures (look closely for the shape in the door)

After spending the morning at school, we were sent off with kisses and gifts from students, then we went back to our lovely hotel to pack up and leave.  I made a final stop at the kiosk where we bought water each day to say goodbye to Omar- the man who invited us to dinner in his home after our first purchase.

  Goodbye, friend!

We then headed out to do some final shopping with Hassan's wife and sister-in-law.  They insisted on going with us to haggle for the best prices on everything we wanted, and they got us quite the deals!

I bought some pottery...

and some tea and spices

Then it was time to say goodbye to our new second family.  We had one last hour together.  Hassan's family didn't come empty handed- they gave us so many gifts!  Homemade cookies, olive oil, special butter, and to my amazement his mother-in-law hand-made us traditional Moroccan clothing!  It is so beautiful! I was shocked that she did this for us, and she made it in such as short time.  She doesn't speak English but kept saying , "I love you"...

In addition, the 12 year-old sister-in-law of our host sent a beautiful outfit for my 12 year-old daughter.  All of that in addition to the gifts they gave us on the first day.  After a tearful farewell, we left Taroudant.  But one last gift- a letter was given to me by the funny and lovely sister-in-law Meryam, who was filled with so much joy.  Her letter said the most expressive and beautiful words and thanked us for sharing in their lives. She wrote..."It's difficult to express my gratitude and love to you.  I want to say so much but I can hardly find the words, so I'll just say that you are the greatest blessing in my life.  Thank you so much for sharing with us our simple life, culture, and traditions..."  That goes to show how Moroccans treat their guests.  This letter and all of the other gifts will be treasured forever.

Just some of the many gifts given by our host, his family, and his students...

Farewell to an amazing family

Question of the Day:  How do you say goodbye in Arabic?

A Trip to the Tannery

We spent another enjoyable morning at the school interacting with English students.  Today a girl brought tears to my eyes as she did a class presentation on why students should respect teachers.  She said that teachers are messengers who teach from their hearts and they love and support students.  She asked students to "take their hands" and accept the gifts that teachers offer.  She was very well-spoken and actually has been selected to participate in a workshop in Germany next month.  SO many amazing students here!

Lovely girl who did a presentation on respecting teachers... 

American logos are everywhere!

She made us friendship bracelets!

In our final class of the day the students were learning about stereotypes.  They were discussing stereotypes that Moroccans have about other Moroccans, then they addressed some stereotypes that Moroccans have about Americans.  The four main stereotypes they have heard are that Americans are...1) intolerant, 2) drink a lot of alcohol 3) discriminate against each other, and 4) make children leave home when they are 18.   We discussed these topics and the students were very open-minded and curious to find out if these ideas are true.  

After school, our host teacher and his wife took us on a ride to several places nearby.  First we went to buy argan oil.  You may call it Moroccan oil and you can buy it in beauty shops...it's great for your hair.  Argan is also used for many products here such as soap and cooking oil, but it is an arduous task to process it.  We bought some products at this location because the money goes to support women in need.  There are so many philanthropic people here in Morocco, especially our host Hassan Aitman.

Argan in various stages of processing

Our next stop was the local tannery.  A tannery is where hides of animals are processed.  This tannery uses very traditional methods to remove fur from skin and process it.  Some of the animals they process at this tannery are camel, goat, and cow.  It smells and looks very disturbing.  In fact, we were given a sprig of mint to sniff so the smell wouldn't make us sick.  

Our "taxi" to the tannery

They had many types of animal hides at the tannery

Removing the fur from the hide by hand (poor camel)

Kitty hanging out by a vat of pigeon poo ( the droppings are used to process the leather)

Fur was everywhere (and dogs and cats roaming on it)

Drying out the hide before dying it various colors

A teenager cutting and sewing the leather into shoes

The final products for sale at the tannery 

After our time on the town, we went to an evening class at a nearby private language academy where our host teaches at night. We did a presentation and had a discussion.  One boy there asked me to bring home a story that he wrote to read to my students and gave me his email so I can write to him and tell what they think, which I will do.  Once again I learned so much today here in Morocco.

Answers to your questions:  Beth F, things are very inexpensive here compared to America.  A taxi ride costs less than $1, a homemade donut fried right before your eyes is 10 cents, and some fruit is about 90% cheaper that back home.  Ramon, I have noticed that many boys wear a ring and watches seem popular here.  Girls wear simple jewelry and silver is more common the gold.  Elias, I was told that hydro electric and solar power are how Morocco gets most of its electricity.  They don't burn coal like we do in WV.

Question of the day:  What is the major religion in Morocco?

Back to School

Today we spent a lot of time at our host school- Sidi O Sidi.  We participated in and observed in English, math, and science classes.  The math teacher taught his lesson in English, but that is unusual.  The Moroccan government is considering having all math and science classes in high school taught in English in the near future... English is the language of technology. The students seem to have much better math skills than American students and they have little hands-on; it's mostly listening and taking notes.  I have also not seen any kids who have trouble sitting still for hours on end and they don't seem to need technology in the classroom to learn.  Maybe it's the exercise they get riding and walking to and from school multiple times a day.  Take note, American students! 

Student parking lot

After lunch some lovely girls from our host teacher's class did a presentation on Moroccan culture for us.  We walked into the classroom and they had the front row set up for a celebration with decorations, fruit and drinks for us.  Two of the girls dressed up in traditional wedding attire and they explained that Moroccans have different cultures here that celebrate in various ways depending on their tribe or ethnic group.  We presented information on American weddings back to them and it was such a treat.

 Girls doing a cultural presentation- two in wedding attire

After school my travel partner and I had a lovely dinner and walked through the lively streets.  It was another amazing day in Morocco!

Pasta and grains in the street markets

Questions:  Xavier- one television show here in Morocco is Arabs Got Talent on Saturday nights.  For all of those who asked about entertainment and free time-students do what you mainly do...hang out with friends, social media, play soccer.  They seem to me less interested in television and video games than American kids.  The town I am is is a bit smaller than Martinsburg, and the kids walk or ride a bike to school and back for their two hour lunch break.  They have a nice, fresh lunch prepared at home and can rest before returning to school.  Nina, a typical house is more like a townhouse-- homes attached to each other.  

Typical house in Taroudant 

It is normal for kids to share bedrooms with their siblings.  Brianna C- the living rooms here have a couch around the entire outer edge of the room so many people can sit.  There aren't really yards with grass, etc.  When kids grow up they usually stay in the same home with the family until they are married.  Even after marriage some stay with their families.  They asked us about kids leaving home at 18 and wondered if it was positive or negative thing.  Mathew- no they don't have blow guns or any other types of guns for that matter unless you are a policeman or in the military.  It is illegal to own guns in Morocco, so gun violence is not an issue here.  And one more question to answer for Brian (bet you didn't think I'd answer this one...) toilets vary in Morocco from wonderfully modern to not so modern.  BYOTP (bring your own toilet paper)!  I prefer the modern as I haven't learned the correct technique for the second type just yet.  

Question of the Day:  What are the two main ethnic groups in Morocco?

A Day Off

Last night after the Woman's Day program at school, we were invited to dinner at the home of our host teacher's mother-in-law.  When we arrived, Hassan's lovely wife and her three amazing sisters were there along with her beautiful mother who had spent the entire day preparing food for our visit.  The ladies told us they had a surprise for us, and it was that they has traditional Moroccan dress-up clothes for us to put on.  The garments are for special occasions such as weddings and and are called "caftans".  After we ate a wonderful meal of chicken kabobs, soup, bread, and the best sweet treats we have had in Morocco, the ladies taught us traditional Moroccan dance moves.  You have to shake your shoulders up and down while you move your feet and bodies.  It was a great time.  One of sisters there was 12 years old- the same age as my students and she was so much fun.

This morning we got up early and Hassan took us to the resort town of Agadir- about 90 minutes from Taroudant.  His wife and sister-in--law accompanied us and it was nice to spend the day relaxing.  We started at the souk market and shopped for things to bring back.  There were so many spices and oils, leather goods and produce... it was so colorful and I bought several things for my family and the prices were very low compared to America.  

Moroccan products at the souk

Non-Moroccan products at the souk...

Holding two chameleons at the souk...

After the market we walked through a bird sanctuary, then went to a fish market for lunch.  We ate 5 types of seafood and it was all excellent.   

 Dora tasted the best

After the delicious meal we went to the beach.  After relaxing there and I took a camel ride on what looked like an old camel named Caesar.  He took me for a stroll on the beach.  

Camel selfie for Ms. Tiegs and Nate Adams...(look- matching smiles)

Finally one last surprise- Hassan's wife Sukaina made beautiful artwork on my hand with henna.  Henna is a dye prepared from a plant that stains your skin temporarily.  I hope it lasts until I get home so I can show my students.

A few questions answered...Delvin a common job is working in agriculture as Morocccans grow a lot of food.  In their free time people like to hang out with family and friends and share food and company, Makenzie.  Katie and Sierra, I leaned today that people don't really have many house pets.  Animals are more for outside!  

Question of the Day:  What is a souk?